Honeyed Jamalade by Local Kitchen
I love jam and I think that I may be in love with Kaela.
Jamalade, you say? Yes. Jamalade. Not quite a jam: toothsome slivers of citrus zest and a touch of pithy bitterness from the addition of citrus pectin make this flavorful preserve reminiscent of marmalade. Yet not quite a marmalade either: the majority of the white pith is left out of this recipe, and the fruit is strained from the syrup and added only at the end of the cooking process, yielding visible chunks of ruby red grapefruit in the final product, and a sweetness that is nicely balanced, but not overwhelmed, by the milder bitter flavor. Jamalade: a kinder, gentler marmalade.
Funny thing is, when I developed the guajillo marm, I made it with me in mind: big, bold, bitter, spicy, smack-me-in-the-face-and-call-me-Sally marmalade. It fits the profile of how I like my sweets: as a surprising and balancing counterpoint to spicy, bitter, smoky or salty. When I was working on this honeyed grapefruit preserve, however, I had my husband in mind: Mr. Sweet Tooth, as I call him, who can easily add jam and honey and chocolate sauce to a bowl of chocolate ice cream (my teeth ache just thinking about it). But as it turns out, his favorite is definitely the grapefruit guajillo (which I like, but think could have used a bit more heat) while I find I’m partial to this honeyed version: I love the texture, with the chewy strips of zest and the chunks of whole fruit suspended in a just-barely-set syrup; I love the flavor, sweet, floral from the honey, tangy and just enough bitterness to conjure up “marmalade” in your mouth; and I love the look of it, the jewel-like tones and the crazy-wild texture, like it’s the Muppet-drummer of jams.
All in all, a winner. And since I still have about 10 pounds of citrus sitting on my kitchen counter, a technique I’m sure I’ll return to as Citruspalooza ’12 rolls on (and on. and on….).